In plain sight - Copenhagen's not-so-hidden gems.

A modern city by historical standards, Copenhagen remains rich in history despite its lack of an ancient legacy. In Plain Sight acquaints Copenhagen’s expat community with the fascinating tales of their adoptive home city.

Photographs: Visit Copenhagen / Frederiks Kirke - Marmorkirken FB Page

Text: Jess Hearne

Perhaps the most interesting feature of a city’s dynamics is the things that can coexist in the same spaces: peace and noise, history and modernity and the celebrated and the everyday. A stone’s throw from Copenhagen’s vibrant city centre stands the domineering structure of Marmokirken, a timeless example of the character that contrast can bring.

From grand design to forgotten ruin

The story of one of Copenhagen’s most iconic landmarks dates back to the designs of Danish architect Nicolai Eigtved in the year 1740. A pioneer of the Rococo style in Danish architecture, he designed a number of buildings around the city, many of which still stand today. Marmokirken, officially titled Frederiks Kirke (Frederik’s Church), was to be the crown jewel of the elegant new district of Frederiksstaden, built under the commission of King Frederik V to commemorate the 300th anniversary of the House of Oldenburg’s ascension to the Danish throne.

The opulent design of Marmokirken (which translates to “The Marble Church”) featured the largest church dome in Scandinavia – a record it still holds in modern times. Most likely inspired by St Peter’s Basilica in Rome, the Evangelical Lutheran church was to display levels of extravagance more typically seen in Catholic places of worship. Intended to be built entirely from Norwegian marble, this earned the church the nickname that it’s still more commonly known by to this day. King Frederik V proudly laid the first foundation stone himself on 31st October 1749, but what began as a tribute to the enduring glory of the monarchy soon fell upon a series of setbacks, thus delaying its completion for almost a century and a half.

When Eigtved died in 1754, construction of Marmokirken was taken over by the French architect Nicolas-Henri Jardin, who put a neoclassical twist on the original design. However, political upheaval, shifting priorities and the escalating costs of materials led to work being suspended in 1770, with only the foundation and lower walls being completed. For over one hundred years, the unfinished site would stand as a silent testament to unrealised ambition, leading to frustration and ridicule in public discourse.

"Marmokirken is active today as both a parish church and a beloved tourist attraction, drawing in visitors for a multitude of cultural reasons."

Urban renewal and the modern era

It wasn’t until Carl Frederik Tietgen, one of Denmark’s wealthiest businessmen, arrived on the scene in the 19th century that someone came to Marmokirken’s rescue. Upon establishing a public-private partnership in 1874, Tietgen saw an opportunity to achieve his personal ambitions whilst also giving back to both his country and his religion, offering to fund the completion of the church in exchange for development rights to the surrounding area. The church was redesigned by Ferdinand Meldahl, who opted for more affordable Norwegian limestone while still carefully preserving many of the original design's aspects. Finally, in 1894, Marmokirken was completed and consecrated.

Since the original architecture dated back to the Age of Enlightenment, Marmokirken’s aesthetics carefully reflected the intellectual and philosophical ideals that defined the period. Through rich, detailed symbolism, emphasis was placed on conveying reason, order and harmony. Most notable of these efforts is the dome, which represents the heavens, supported by twelve Corinthian columns symbolising the pillars of society.

The façade is adorned with notable religious figures, such as Danish theologian Søren Kierkegaard and Martin Luther. Inside are beautiful mosaics, marble finishes and ornate frescoes. Marmokirken’s exceptional acoustics make it a popular venue for concerts and other cultural events, which often feature its colossal church organ, which is one of the largest in Scandinavia.

Marmokirken is active today as both a parish church and a beloved tourist attraction, drawing in visitors for a multitude of cultural reasons. From regular worship services and weddings to guided tours and outstanding panoramic views of the city, people come in droves to find out what this magnificent structure has to offer.

Ultimately, Marmokirken is an emblem of how grand ideas can be brought to light through dedication and perseverance. The structure reflects Denmark’s capacity for reinvention and renewal, blending history, commerce and civic pride into a national treasure that stands the test of time.