In plain sight - Copenhagen's not-so-hidden gems.

A modern city by historical standards, Copenhagen remains rich in history despite its lack of ancient legacy. In Plain Sight acquaints Copenhagen’s expat community with the fascinating tales of their adoptive home city.

Photographs: Copenhill Urban Mountain

Text: Jess Hearne

For centuries, Copenhagen’s skyline has been defined by towers and spires, relics of kings and architects from another age. But in recent years, sleek new structures have emerged, adding a modern rhythm to the cityscape. Among them, Amager Bakke – also known as "Copenhill" – stands out as a bold symbol of innovation and environmental ambition. Crowned "World Building of the Year 2021" at the 14th World Architecture Festival, Amager Bakke embodies Copenhagen's vision for a greener and more dynamic future.

Redefining waste management

In 2009, plans emerged to replace Amager's ageing waste incinerator with a high-performance, multipurpose facility. Envisioned was a plant that would burn waste more efficiently, producing 20% more heat and electricity while cutting pollution by half. Renamed the Amager Resource Centre (ARC), the facility also includes a waste-sorting centre for household recycling. Designed by Bjarke Ingels Group, Amager Bakke aims not only to transform waste management but also to challenge conventional ideas about public utility buildings.

More than just a waste-to-energy plant, Amager Bakke is an immersive destination for adventure seekers. The building houses a ski hill, hiking trails and even a glass elevator offering views of its inner workings. From futuristic design to environmental engineering, Amager Bakke merges utility with creativity, drawing in tourists and locals alike. Its iconic rooftop has even gleaned international attention, starring in a 2020 Ford campaign.

A hub for thrill-seekers

Copenhill builds on the legacy of the industrial waterfront as a playground for extreme sports. Rising 85 metres above the city, the structure boasts breathtaking views of Copenhagen and the surrounding island of Amager. At the top, visitors encounter a biodiverse rooftop garden with trails for hiking and running – a manmade “mountain” where people can explore a unique, fairytale-like landscape.

A popular Danish pastime, skiing is often reserved for winter trips to Norway, Sweden or the Alps. Yet now, thanks to Copenhill’s slopes, Danes can ski right at home. Designed by the International Alpine Design organisation, the site has become a crucial training site for the Danish Ski Association’s Olympic and World Cup contenders. After a day on the slopes, visitors can unwind at Copenhill’s cosy après-ski bar, a nod to alpine tradition in the heart of Copenhagen.

For those seeking a vertical challenge, Amager Bakke also boasts an 80-metre climbing wall, the tallest artificial climb in the world. Developed with the Danish Climbing Association, the wall complements nearby facilities and invites both seasoned climbers and newcomers to test their skills on routes that rival natural climbs.

"In operation since 2017, Amager Bakke has quickly established itself as one of Europe’s most efficient waste-to-energy plants."

Environmental ambitions and controversy

In operation since 2017, Amager Bakke has quickly established itself as one of Europe’s most efficient waste-to-energy plants. Each year, it incinerates up to 600,000 tonnes of municipal waste, supplying district heating and electricity for 150,000 households. Built to exceed EU environmental standards, the plant was also designed to burn biomass if waste supplies run short, theoretically providing carbon-neutral energy.

Yet Amager Bakke’s promise has been met with scrutiny. Denmark’s impressive recycling rates mean the plant doesn’t have enough local waste to burn, forcing it to import waste from abroad and use biomass, decisions that increase its carbon footprint. While meeting Copenhagen’s immediate heating needs, this reliance on imported waste risks conflicting with the city’s ambitious goal of achieving carbon neutrality by 2025.

The future of sustainable infrastructure

Amager Bakke is more than a waste management facility – it’s a statement. The plant redefines what municipal infrastructure can be, merging sustainability with recreation and inspiring Copenhageners to think differently about the environment. While the plant’s waste-to-energy model has its limitations, it points to an intriguing possibility for integrating functionality and leisure in public utilities.

Ultimately, Amager Bakke’s legacy will be more than its architecture; it’s a call to reimagine urban spaces and redefine sustainability. As cities worldwide pursue greener futures, Copenhill reminds us that environmental solutions, while complex, can be both innovative and beautiful.

For more information, visit https://www.copenhill.dk/en