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Beyond the moodboard

People going Christmas shopping in Ghent, lit up at night
Source: Vogue.com / Photo: Getty Images

With moodboards dictating desire and image replacing essence, Ophelia Wu considers why alignment - not aesthetic - defines personal style.


Photographs: Various


The internet has rediscovered the 90s power couple JFK Jr and Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy through the latest TV series. Every media outlet and social media account is loaded with tips and guides on how to dress like them, where to find the exact pieces, and how to channel their "aesthetic". Emulate as much as you want; the truth is, there was and only ever will be one JFK Jr and one Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy.


Style vs trend

This is an interesting phenomenon because here we see a distinct difference (or confusion) between style and trend. The Kennedys’ style embodied a trend that encapsulated the 90s zeitgeist and their lifestyle. There were no categories for what that trend was, because a trend is often manufactured before it becomes the norm, only being articulated once it is seen in the wild.


What we now call “90s minimalism,” “quiet luxury,” or “clean girl aesthetics” was not a trend CBK was leading or following. She was a private citizen with a successful career and a fully formed identity long before she became the most famous woman in America through marriage. CBK adapted her wardrobe choices according to her career at Calvin Klein, her lifestyle, her personality, and her preferences - elements which then became the style we now label.


Was she intentionally dressed? Maybe. Was she intuitively dressed? Highly possible. No one knows for sure why she dressed the way she did, but looking at her photos and videos, one thing is very clear: her personality shines through. Her energy and her style were in such total alignment that there was no sense of misplacement, no misalignment, and no forced performative curation for the cameras. There was no ego in her style; rather, the presence of someone fully aware of what she was wearing. While she knew cameras were everywhere, this was the analogue 90s - a period when people actually lived in the present and were more in tune with themselves than constantly seeking attention from strangers on a digital platform.


Similarly, men today find inspiration in JFK Jr’s habit of wearing suits with a backwards cap. Is it a stylish look? It depends on who you ask. Is it trendy? Not a chance. It was simply a man who needed to wear suits for work but likely wanted a cap to conceal messy hair while biking through the city. That was the energy, and that is how it translated into style. Lookalikes can dress, talk, and walk like him, but there is only one JFK Jr. It was never about what he wore, but who he was and what he represents.


Source: BBC / Photo: Getty Images
Source: BBC / Photo: Getty Images

Why energy alignment matters

Pinterest boards and social media accounts claim you can "dress like who you want to become" - that if you dress like your aspiration, you will think yourself into becoming them. What they miss is that you can rarely trick yourself into a new identity through dressing alone; without an internal shift, that is a style misalignment - it is cosplay at most.


The key lies in the source of the power. Is the clothing a source of power (the costume) or a reflection of power (the style)?


Consider a little boy who becomes hyped to be Spider-Man. Once he puts on the costume, he feels powerful and invincible. This isn't just because he thinks he is a superhero; he genuinely feels he has transformed, and his energy shifts to match that internal reality. He did not "borrow" the costume; he already feels like he is a superhero before he even puts it on. He isn't seeking external validation; he doesn't care if you think he is Spider-Man - he just is.


Source: BBC / Photo: Getty Images
Source: BBC / Photo: Getty Images

When an executive woman puts on a blazer, "alignment" only occurs if she already possesses the competence and authority the blazer represents. If she is using the blazer to hide her insecurity or to "fake it," there is a leak - it feels like a costume. The adult "cosplayer" is almost always looking for the world to confirm that they look like the person they are emulating. Whether it is dressing head-to-toe as Audrey Hepburn or mimicking a corporate titan, if the intent is to seek validation for a status you haven't yet embodied, the result is a shallow, performative image. It is soulless.


What CBK and JFK Jr wore was never about the clothes; it was about their energy. It was not that they viewed themselves as royalty; rather, it was a society and a media landscape that projected that "royal" status onto them. They had a glorious aura because they were living full lives - careers, interests, and a lifestyle they genuinely enjoyed. CBK’s taste was heavily influenced by her years at Calvin Klein; she was good at her work and naturally aligned with the brand’s aesthetic, which made her style appear effortless. JFK Jr, born into the public eye and raised amongst the best tailors, made choices that were a direct extension of his unique environment.


This is what Roland Barthes explored through the lens of semiotics: the relationship between the signifier and the signified. In the world of style, the clothes are the signifier - the physical textures, cuts, and items we see. The signified is the internal concept, the energy, and the essence that those clothes represent. The Kennedys radiated an aura impossible to ignore, and their outfits became the perfect signifiers of that internal state. When you try to reverse this process - using their signifiers to "buy" a signified essence that isn't yours - the meaning gets lost. You do not share their lived experience, their specific lifestyle, or their personal preferences. Consequently, the "sign" is broken. Style is personal; trend is seasonal. If you take inspiration from a moodboard just to "put on" an outfit, you will only feel the disconnection more acutely.


Source: Vogue.com / Photo: Getty Images
Source: Vogue.com / Photo: Getty Images

Finding your own alignment

How do you align your energy with your style, and how do you know when it is working? That is something everyone needs to work on. With the right guidance, it is helpful to see from another perspective. But without help, you must be extremely clear and consistent at all times, remaining deeply aware of every decision you make and how you present yourself.


The reason why CBK and JFK Jr remain hard to ignore is that they were never cosplaying. They weren't desperately trying to become someone they weren’t, nor were they dressing to please the crowd or the papers. They were loyal to themselves. True style comes from within - a profound understanding of yourself and your environment.


Source: Elle.dk / Photo: Mega
Source: Elle.dk / Photo: Mega

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